Windsor’s new artisanal French-style Charcuterie & deli offers authentic, ‘simple’ cuisine

There is the French food that many Americans know and love. And then there is “authentique” French food, as it’s served in France. Marc-Henri and Maud Jean-Baptiste want to show us the difference with their new Maison Porcella, which opened in September in Windsor.

As Marc-Henri told me, “French cuisine is so much (less) elaborate than what is usually presented in the States. We want people to discover the other French, which is simple, and not all based on heavy butter and sauces.”

So instead of stereotypes like boeuf Bourguignon (which actually breaks my heart, because I love boeuf Bourguignon), we can expect dishes like organic carrot salad tossed with olive oil, lemon juice, Dijon mustard and a dash of salt and white pepper ($3).

Yet Marc-Henri’s idea of “simple” is far different from mine. His specialty is tiny-batch, artisanal charcuterie of indulgent pâtés; glistening rillettes; liver mousses; chunky terrines; and andouillette, a coarse-grained sausage made from pork intestine, wine, onions and seasonings. One of his favorite creations is head cheese, a silky masterpiece of pig snout, skin and cheeks molded with white wine and shallots into a vegetable-infused gelee. Each item takes several days to create.

The Jean-Baptistes call their operation “casual” and “humble.” But it’s been a magnificent work in progress, begun as a production kitchen to make their charcuterie sold at local farmers markets. It soon expanded to a retail storefront selling the pâtés along with a mouthwatering array of grab-and-go sandwiches, savory pastries, artisanal bread, French wines and must-have pantry staples like jars of goose fat.

Next, the couple introduced Tuesday and Friday night “soirees” in the style of the apéro dînatoire gatherings that are a French tradition. That’s when friends drop in at each other’s homes and share impromptu meals with plenty of fine wine and conversation. The food is based on what’s grab-able, dip-able and loosely arranged on a platter or cutting board. It’s meant to be a meal of chic snacks enjoyed while the host is part of the party instead of working in the kitchen.

“We just hang out. We all share, and it’s a nice little moment,” Maud explained.

It took the Jean-Baptistes awhile to renovate the Windsor bar and bistro. The space used to be Chloe’s French Catering until the Pisan family owners decided to retire.

Just last month, Maison Porcella opened for lunch. The three-course menu changes weekly, as a supplement to staples like that gorgeous charcuterie and a perfect croque-monsieur of layered ham and bechamel, Swiss cheese, Gruyere and Parmesan on homemade butter-laquered milk bread ($27).

Yes, it may seem odd to charge $27 for a sandwich, but this “simple” ham is anything but. This is the incomparably silky Parisian-style ham called jambon superieur, crafted from organic heritage Duroc pork legs. Marc-Henri meticulously trims the meat; brines it in a fragrant broth of carrots, onions, parsley and thyme; and then cooks it sous-vide for 12 hours before hand-slicing it into lacy wisps. The curls ribboned with fat nearly melt in your mouth.

And it’s important to note that all menu prices include a 20% service charge, so no extra tip is needed.

You can savor the ham chiffonade, generously piled on a plate with crunchy cornichons and Marla Bakery baguette ($20) — nothing else is needed, except a glass of Daï Myrko Tépus Les Gorges rosé from IGP Coteaux du Verdon, France ($12 glass, $80 bottle). The Grenache-Cinsault cuvee is vinified in concrete vats, Maud said as she offered a preview taste, for refreshing lightness yet enough richness for the ham.

You also can tuck into a feuillete de jambon, ham nested with bechamel and Gruyere in a flaky, buttery envelope of housemade puff pastry ($35, serves two).

Lunch can be had a la carte, or as a prix-fixe for $49. I highly suggest going all in, to fully appreciate the thoughtfully curated experience.

For one week’s “simple” menu, Marc-Henri sent out a salad of crisp endive hearts laced with walnuts, julienned green apple, mild Roquefort and tiny croutons in a brilliant mustard vinaigrette ($16).

Next was rillons de porc, a nearly book-size slab of stunningly rich pan-fried pork belly plated with dressed lettuces and a swath of salsify puree ($25). A basket of baguette and homemade buttery accompanied it.

The finale: crème aux oeufs, a velvety, slightly sweet custard capped in orange zest, with a side of feather-light citrus cake ($10).

Marc-Henri is already working on other “simple meals,” like poireaux vinaigrette with sauce ravigote, poached sea bass with vegetable a la grecque and tarte aux pommes with vanilla Sultan cream.

“You know, pate en croute in savory puff pastry, and lapin saute chasseur (rabbit sauteed with mushrooms and lardons in a light sauce),” he said. “We’re really trying to expand people’s vision of what French cuisine is, and not just stick to the classics. I love seasonal menus that allow me to play around.”

Carey Sweet is a Sebastopol-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.