Wine of the week: Frank Family Vineyards, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Winemaker Todd Graff crafted our wine of the week winner — the Frank Family Vineyards, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley at $60. Weighted to black fruit, this layered cab over-delivers. It’s full of intrigue, with layers of blackberry, plum and coffee. An impressive cab, it has great structure and is balanced with crisp acidity.

“Our goal is to be the go-to cabernet that will out-perform but cost a little less on the restaurant wine list,” Graff said.

The winemaker said what makes the winning cab a standout is that it had a “near-perfect” growing season in 2019.

“We had ideal fall ripening weather that allowed for prolonged hang time,” Graff said. “We added just a touch of petite verdot and merlot to the blend to give additional complexity to the wine.”

The winemaker, who grew up in Petaluma, said he has been surrounded by wine his entire life and was drawn to winemaking at a young age.

“I loved it that winemaking would allow me to spend time outdoors in the vineyard and to create something that people enjoy each and every day,” he said.

Now 61, Graff graduated from UC Davis with a degree in plant science in 1984. He circled the globe working at wineries in Germany, France and Australia and returned to California in 1987 to work as assistant winemaker at Stag’s Leap Winery. From 1990 to 1995, he was assistant winemaker and vineyard manager at Schramsberg Vineyards, where he delved into the craft of sparkling wines. Graff joined Frank Family Vineyards in 2003 and is now the winemaker and general manager.

“I think people are often surprised that I came to Frank Family Vineyards with a background in sparkling,” Graff said. “However, I loved that knowledge and found it to be advantageous when making still wines.”

The winemaker said his house style with every varietal is to stay true to the grape and the region.

“I want cabernet to taste like cabernet,” he said. “I respect the fruit in its truest form and really try not to interfere too much in the cellar.”

The goal, he said, is to achieve balance and flavor.

Mosel, Germany, is Graff’s most-treasured wine region outside the U.S.

“It’s the full package,” he said. “It has the Mosel River running through the region, the small, charming towns and villages.It’s overwhelmingly stunning and it produces superb white wines.”

As for California, Graff’s favorite wine-growing regions are Sonoma County and Napa Valley.

“I grew up in Sonoma County and now I make wine in Napa, so I appreciate and love them both,” he said. “Any wine region with great food, kind people and picturesque scenery — you can’t go wrong.”

You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.