Wine of the week: J. Moss, 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Coombsville, Steffensen Vineyard

“Don’t let anyone steal your dreams.”

This is the message James Moss has for other Black vintners and wine professionals who want to break through barriers in the wine industry.

For Black History Month, the month of February, we looked to Black winemakers in the North Bay and beyond for our wine of the week lineup. Moss won the tasting with his J. Moss, 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Coombsville, Steffensen Vineyard, 14.4%, $84, snagging 4.5 stars. It’s a full-bodied, complex cab with enticing notes of red raspberry and cherry, plus flavors of plum, blackberry and a hint of dark chocolate. Briary, with a sassy undercurrent of spice from start to finish, this cab is impressive.

Other wines in the flight, with full tasting notes, are:

Theopolis, 2019 Petite Sirah, Yorkville Highlands, Mendocino County, 14.5%. $45, 4 stars. Lovely aromas of violet, strawberry and raspberry, with a kiss of vanilla. Layered and a touch earthy, it’s well-crafted.

Three by Wade (Wade Cellars), 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 14.5%, $28, 4 stars. A tasty red that rides on crisp acidity. Balanced, with tangy red raspberry fruit and chewy tannins. Nice length.

Tympany, 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 15.7%, $64, 4 stars. Red raspberry aromas follow through to the palate, with notes of cinnamon and white pepper. Concentrated fruit. Pretty.

Okapi, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 15.1%, $121, 3.5 stars. Layered notes of strawberry, cherry, leather and toast. Well-integrated.

Vision Cellars, 2018 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, 13.5%, $45, 3.5 stars. A full-bodied pinot noir with notes of black cherry, raspberry, cranberry and white pepper. Lingering finish.

As for the winning cab, Moss said the style he’s shooting for is one with great depth and good structure, a wine you can uncork today or cellar for years to come.

“In 1996, I tasted a bottle of 1981 Rubicon,” Moss said. “It had a rush of bright fruit and the deep rich flavors of cherries with a touch of sweetness that followed, with a long silky finish that left me wanting more. ... I knew I was hooked.”

Moss, now in his 50s, was working in sales for Dr. Pepper in Dallas in 1993 when a man named Calvin Crosby asked if he wanted to work for a fine wine and spirits distributor. Moss joined Crosby at the company, now known as Republic Beverage Distributor. His new job required him to travel to Wine Country, where he explored premium wine produced in Sonoma County and Napa Valley.

In 1998, Moss moved to Napa Valley, where he began helping his friend Mark Jessup, then winemaker of Jessup Cellars. Moss dreamed of making his own brand and in 2001, he founded J. Moss, which now produces roughly 1,500 cases a year.

J. Moss focuses on cabernet sauvignon, with nearly a dozen bottlings in the lineup. Moss heads marketing while tackling day-to-day winemaking and choosing the vineyards where he sources his grapes.

Moss said he loves cabs that have a strong voice.

“I’ve always gravitated to big cabs,” he said. “It’s the wine I always wanted to produce. I’m constantly tasting some of the best cabs in Napa and Sonoma and surrounding counties so I can continue to learn and make the best bottle of cab.”

You can reach Wine Writer Peg Melnik at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.