Wine of the week: Truett Hurst, 2021 Old Vine Red Rooster, Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Ross Reedy, it seems, has always been a precocious winemaker.

When he was a kid, Reedy worked with his dad in their garage making wine.

“To this day, in my moments of quiet reflection in the cellar, I often think back on those days with my dad, and it always makes me smile. That time is when I really fell in love with winemaking.”

Reedy is behind our wine of the week winner — Truett Hurst, 2021 Old Vine Red Rooster, Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, 15.9%, $49, 4.5 stars.

Rich and concentrated, this zinfandel is spot on. It is a feisty zin that has notes of blackberry and raspberry with a tap dance of spice. It’s impressive.

While the Truett Hurst and VML wine brands are currently going through a transition, Reedy will continue on as the winemaker.

Last week, Phil Hurst partnered with Sonoma County vintner and boutique hotelier Ken Wilson to buy the inventory and brand intellectual property from Healdsburg-based Truett Hurst, Inc.

Reedy, 42, joined Truett Hurst 12 years ago and is now the director of winemaking.

As for his house style, he said, “I strive to create a wine that is what I would call ‘elevated balance,’ It means big fruit takes center stage but it’s balanced by lively acidity and silky tannin.”

The winemaker credits his team for making sure every lot that goes into the zinfandel blend is of exceptional quality.

“So, when it comes time to craft the blend, it’s really just about making stylistic choices to stay true to the integrity of the Red Rooster Wine,” he said.

Most people are surprised to learn Red Rooster is sourced from old vine grape vineyards, Reedy said.

“For me, old vine vineyards are almost always the base of a delicious zin,” he explained. “Old Vines really lend themselves to the style of the wines we make at Truett Hurst.”

What people don’t realize about zinfandel, Reedy said, is that it’s a bit of a chameleon.

“Zinfandel draws a lot of different palates,” he said. “It’s grown all over the world, and it’s expressed in so many different ways. Even in the Dry Creek, where we source most of our fruit, you see so many different interpretations of the variety.”

The most challenging part of crafting zinfandel, Reedy said, is fermenting it.

“Assuming you bring in high quality fruit that hasn’t been compromised by the elements, there’s an inverse correlation that can occur during fermentations,” he said. “As a winemaker, I have to be super careful to monitor that closely, so it doesn’t cause problems.”

Asked what makes him a good fit to be a winemaker, Reedy quipped, “I’m passionate, hardworking and slightly masochistic.”

You can reach Wine Writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.