9 questions with Phil Tessier, executive chef at Press in St. Helena

You cannot cover Napa County without including its dynamic dining scene. Part of The Press Democrat’s expanding coverage into Napa County will include interviews with some of the restaurant and dining scene’s biggest names and influencers. Look for our regular series that casts the spotlight on a different chef or restaurant owner who stands out in the world of food and drink.

This week, we caught up with chef Phil Tessier, the executive chef at Press in St. Helena.

Previously the executive sous chef at The French Laundry, Tessier has been working to transition Press from a classic steakhouse to a restaurant serving modern, refined American cuisine on par with the rest of the Napa Valley stars.

We offered nine questions to Tessier. Here’s a sampling of our conversation.

The Press Democrat: How would you describe your culinary style?

Phil Tessier: The short answer is, refined simplicity. There’s a layer of technique, and I love traditional French cuisine and respecting where things come from. I do steer clear of trends. It drives me crazy. The exciting thing is the opportunity to grow as a chef and not put myself in a box.

PD: How would you describe your restaurant’s atmosphere to someone who has never visited?

Tessier: We are right in the heart of Napa Valley in a beautiful dining room designed by Howard Backen, who I describe as the Thomas Keller of architecture. It’s a bright, airy space with great ambiance. We want it to be approachable, not intimidating in terms of type of service.

PD: Do you have a favorite purveyor you work with?

Tessier: We work with Peter Jacobsen at Jacobsen Orchards. We’re actually working with him on a new space that we hope next year will become our own farm. We hope to be able to use our farm first and fill in the blanks as needed. Tenbrink Vineyards also provides quite a bit for us.

PD: What is the most popular dish on your menu, and how do you pair it?

Tessier: Our most popular is a ricotta gnudi we do, wrapped in squash blossom and served with Parmesan consommé. It has a nostalgic flavor, sort of like creamy tomato soup. I can’t tell you how many people say it reminds them of that. I’d pair it with a School House pinot noir.

PD: What do you hate cooking or try to avoid?

Tessier: I hated squash so much as a kid, so it’s very ironic that one of our most popular dishes now is halibut wrapped in squash. It’s more a challenge of taking things people are familiar with and making them exciting or approachable for people.

PD: What’s your favorite restaurant to visit in your off hours?

Tessier: I’m an ethnic cuisine or top-of-the-line person. One of my favorite places is ZuZu Napa. It’s small plates, very traditional, but one of my favorite local eateries here.

PD: What do you enjoy doing when you’re not cooking?

Tessier: My outside passion is soccer. I don’t get a chance to play very often, but I’m passionate about the sport. And, of course, the summer is centered around the World Cup. My kids were videoing my reactions and sending it to my family. I’m a World Cup nerd.

PD: What makes the Napa dining scene unique?

Tessier: In Napa, we maximize the experience. We’re not just here to provide sustenance. It’s about an experience and memory and who you share it with. We have a unique opportunity with such an amazing location and the aura of this region. It’s not easy, but it’s easier for us to capture that than in many other places.

PD: What do you see as the future of fine dining?

Tessier: I’m very optimistic about fine dining. I get frustrated when I hear people say, “Fine dining is dead,” or that people who work at the top of whatever field or profession are no longer relevant. I think fine dining has shifted: People have never been more informed than they are today, and I think a wider demographic of people is interested in what we do in terms of the craft. One of my goals over time is to change the narrative of fine dining from this elitist experience to: This is the ability to experience food and wine hospitality at its best.

Dahlia Ghabour is an award-winning food writer. Contact Ghabour at dghabour@gmail.com and on Twitter at @dghabour.