9 questions with Ryan King, chef de cuisine at Bouchon Bistro in Yountville

Part of The Press Democrat’s expanded coverage into Napa County includes interviews with some of the restaurant and dining scene’s biggest names and influencers.

Look for our regular series that casts the spotlight on a different chef or restaurant owner who stands out in the world of food and drink in Napa’s thriving dining industry.

This week, we spoke to Ryan King, chef de cuisine at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro in Yountville. The classic French bistro recently celebrated its 25th anniversary.

We offered nine questions to King. Here’s a sampling of our conversation.

Question: What inspired you to become a chef?

Answer: It was a kind of natural integration into the profession. I started washing dishes and prepping foods. I went to culinary school at Southern Hampshire University, and the most impactful part was an externship at the Marriott Hotel in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. I worked for a guy called Matt Lewis, who used to work at Bouchon, which is what triggered my interest in this company.

Q: How would you describe the restaurant’s atmosphere to someone who has never visited?

A: The restaurant is built to be fun and lively. The tables are close together on purpose. It’s tight in here, the music is loud, the murals reflect things around you so it feels closer. We say it’s “energetic, loud and fun.” That’s the vibe we want to instill.

Q: What are some of the most popular dishes on your menu?

A: Hands down the most popular is the Steak Frites, with shallots and Maître d’Hôtel butter. It’s our No. 1 seller, comforting and approachable. Then you have the Poulet Rôti and the onion soup. For me, the pâté is phenomenal, chicken livers and veal wrapped in bacon, very simple. And our sommeliers do such a good job of knowing what goes with which dishes.

Q: What’s your favorite restaurant to visit in your off hours?

A: I go simple. I eat at this little taqueria right down the street from my house, Tacos Michoacan. We eat a lot at home. Usually when we do go out, we pick something really delicious and not too fussy. Simple but delicious food at the mom-and-pop places where you can get things you can’t get at home.

Q: What do you enjoy doing when you’re not cooking?

A: I have two boys, so I spend a lot of time with them, doing what they want to do. You know, taekwondo, sports, crafts. I am really big into music and sports, I’m a big Patriots fan. I’m pretty relaxed when outside of work.

Q: What is your favorite wine to enjoy at home?

A: I like drinking chardonnay, I think it’s easy to drink and refreshing. I’m not too picky. I usually do a cabernet or pinot noir whenever I’m buying a bottle.

PD: Do you have your own farm or a favorite purveyor you work with?

A: We have a garden across from The French Laundry, and we’re able to get the produce The French Laundry doesn’t use. Teresa Kao, the head gardener, will text me and say, “Hey, we have this coming up, can I send it to you,” and I’ll take everything she has available. Having the ability to talk with Teresa and plan for what we’re looking for is great. We also use other purveyors, like Peter Jacobsen in Yountville for fruit.

Q: How are you feeling about Bouchon Bistro hitting its 25-year anniversary?

A: It’s a huge, huge accomplishment for us. Chef (Keller) opened the restaurant on his birthday. Being able to celebrate 25 years at a restaurant is so special, because it’s a difficult business to be open that long and be successful. The feeling you get, seeing everyone in their new (25th anniversary) aprons, was really — there are no words to describe it.

Q: What do you hope to see in the future for Bouchon Bistro?

A: For us as a restaurant, I think it’s more we do what we always have done: provide good service to our guests and comfort and nourishment. It’s about the people coming in the door looking to relax, enjoy good service and a nice glass of wine with steak. I think we do what we have been doing for 25 years, offering guests that experience.

Dahlia Ghabour is an award-winning food writer with reporting experience in Florida and Kentucky. Contact them at dghabour@gmail.com and on Twitter at @dghabour.