RAGU WARMS UP REALLY COLD NIGHTS
When the temperature drops below freezing shortly after the sun goes down,
when conversations turn to broken pipes and black ice, when you find it
impossible to get your toes warm, it may be time to make ragu.
A traditional ragu is not a tomato sauce. It is not even a tomato sauce
with meat, contrary to the multitude of bottled sauces bearing such names.
Rather, a ragu is a sauce of meat, poultry or a combination of the two and
finely diced vegetables simmered for a long time in one or more liquids, such
as water, milk, cream, wine, broth or stock.
Some ragus include tomatoes, some don't. However, tomatoes are never the
primary ingredient.
A traditional ragu, served with good pasta, is the sort of dish that makes
guests sigh with pleasure, especially when the weather is cold and the days
are dark.
It is just the thing in January.
I've made it twice in the past week or so and even its production is a balm
against the elements. As you work, you fall into a pleasant rhythm that is
soothing and warming.
If all the dicing seems like too much work, you can set up two or three
work stations and make it a group project. Once all the meat and vegetables
have been diced, the preparation goes very quickly.
It is essential that you have a good knife and use it properly. If you
don't have a good knife, you might treat yourself to one before you make this
ragu.
I get most of my knives at Sonoma Cutlery and use Henckels Four Star and
Five Star lines because I like
how the handles feel in hand. It is crucial to have a sharp knife with a
comfortable handle when you will be using a knife for more than a few minutes.
If a knife is dull or uncomfortable, your hand will grow fatigued fairly
quickly.
Once you have a good knife, learn to control it by holding the handle, not
by extending a finger onto the blade, which actually gives you less control
and is a bit dangerous.
And make sure you are using the right knife. Paring knives, boning knives
and slicing knives are not designed for chopping and dicing and will make the
task more difficult. If you have just one good knife, make it an all-purpose
chef's knife in a size that feels comfortable to you.
Once you have a good knife, more than this ragu will be easy to prepare.
Everything you do in the kitchen will be easier.
When I made this ragu in early January, I'd planned on asking my local
butcher to grind the chuck roast on a large blade. When he told me that if I
wanted 3 1/2 pounds of meat I would have to buy about 4 1/2 pounds because a
pound is left behind in the grinder, I decided to cut it by hand myself.
There's something about paying $5.99 for a pound of beef that remains at the
store that just doesn't sit right with me. As it turns out, I prefer the
hand-cut meat to the ground meat anyway. Cutting the meat in this way takes
some time, but if you have a good sharp knife that is comfortable in your
hand, it is a pleasant way to spend 40 minutes or so on a cold afternoon.
You will notice, of course, that there is a considerable amount of fat in
this recipe. Do not omit it. The fat contributes flavor, texture and essential
nutrients. You will spoon off some of it after the ragu has cooked; the last
time I made this I removed about 2/3 of a cup. The fat that remains is an
essential part of the sauce. You are not eating huge amounts of the ragu, nor
are you eating such a ragu often. When you do, enjoy the real thing. I like to
serve simple sauteed spinach alongside, which is a very nice foil to the rich
sauce.
An Almost Traditional Ragu for a Cold January Night
Makes 6 to 8 servings
3 to 3 1/2 pounds chuck roast
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces prosciutto or pancetta, cut into 1/4 -inch dice
2 yellow onions, cut into 1/4 -inch dice
3 to 4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/8 - to 1/4 -inch dice
3 to 4 celery stalks, cut into 1/8 - to 1/4 -inch dice
-- Kosher salt
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
3 tablespoons double-concentrated tomato paste
3 cups beef or poultry stock
1 cup half-and-half
-- Black pepper in a mill
1/2 cup minced fresh Italian parsley
1 piece Parmigiano-Reggiano or Vella Dry Jack
1 1/2 packages fusilli col buco (long fusilli)
1 cup heavy cream
3 to 4 garlic cloves, crushed
Use a sharp knife to cut the meat into about 1/4 - to 1/2 -inch dice. To
do so, cut the meat into crosswise slices, cut the slices in half lengthwise
and cut the slices into small pieces. Do not trim away the fat. Put the diced
meat in a container and set aside.
Put the butter and olive oil into a wide, deep pot set over medium heat and
when the butter is melted, add the diced prosciutto or pancetta and cook for
about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the onions and cook until limp,
about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and celery, stir and cook until all of the
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