Yountville's Domaine Chandon publishes new cookbook

When Domaine Chandon first opened, Yountville was a bit of a backwater, far from the mecca of food and wine it has become today.

"There were some local Italian-American bistros and some diners, and that was it," Morgan said. "The French Laundry family (Don and Sally Schmitt) was not on the scene yet."

Other chefs that proved their mettle in the restaurant kitchen include Robert Curry, now executive chef at Auberge du Soleil; and Chris Manning, who manned the stoves before Hoffman took over a few years ago.

Hoffman is the grandson of the Schmitts, the founders of The French Laundry who opened the doors of the now world-famous restaurant in 1978.

"There's a lineage there, and Perry has really picked up the baton and is running with it," Morgan said. "Perry has a sensitivity for French cuisine, but he also uses his New World roots to create his own original menu."

Morgan started off his research for the book by eating several meals at Etoile, then selected recipes that were representative of both its past and present.

Opening with a handful of champagne cocktails, the cookbook continues with classic appetizers such as French Onion Tart, salads and soups such as Crab and Corn Bisque, pastas and grains, seafood, poultry and meat dishes such as Braised Short Ribs, and a smattering of desserts, including the signature Bitter Orange Creme Brul?.

With its foundation in classic French cuisine, the book's recipes can be challenging at times, but there are many that are accessible.

As an appetizer, Morgan suggests tackling Gougeres, a really easy cheese puff that pairs well with sparkling wine.

"They are great to serve your friends when they come over for dinner," he said.

The Carrot and Hearts of Palm Salad with Kumquats, Cumin Seeds and Tangerine-Curry Vinaigrette looks almost too good to eat, but it's simple to concoct. All you need is a vegetable peeler and you're set.

One of Morgan's favorite recipes in the book is the Foie Gras Risotto, a famously rich dish that can be paired with sparkling, white or red wines.

"That's crazy easy," he said. "All you have to do is blend up the foie gras and stir it into the risotto."

In the book, Morgan offers wine suggestions by style for each recipe. He also gives guidance on cellaring wines, cooking with wines, choosing a wine glass and the basics of what makes certain foods taste really good with certain wines.

"If there's one word that explains why wine works well with food, it is acidity," he said. "The acids balance the fats and oils in what we eat. .

.

. It's the great equalizer." The following recipes are from "Domaine Chandon Cookbook.To create "ribbons" of carrot and hearts of palm, use a vegetable peeler and shave very thin slices.Carrot and Hearts of Palm Salad with Kumquats, Cumin Seeds and Tangerine-Curry VinaigretteMakes 4 to 6 servings1 tablespoons cumin seeds10 medium carrots, peeled and cut into thin strips1 can (14 ounces) hearts of palm, rinsed, drained and cut into thin strips or ribbons6 kumquats, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut crosswise into thin slices3 tablespoons finely diced red onion1/3 cup minced fresh cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil? cup fresh tangerine juice or orange juice1 tablespoon white wine vinegar1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon curry powder— Salt and freshly ground pepperIn a small frying pan over medium heat, toast the cumin seeds, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.In a large bowl, combine the carrots, hearts of palm, kumquats, red onion, minced cilantro and cumin seeds. Toss gently to mix.In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, tangerine juice, vinegar, mustard, and curry powder until the dressing thickens and all the ingredients are thoroughly blended.Pour the dressing over the carrot mixture and toss thoroughly to coat evenly. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among salad plates, garnish with the cilantro sprigs, and serve at once.Aside from marinating the quail, this entire recipe can be prepared in under an hour. The birds are best when marinated at least 4 hours in advance, and preferably overnight.Roasted Quail with Israeli Couscous, Black Mission Figs, and Bacon VinaigretteMakes 4 servings4 quail, boned9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped1 tablespoon dried thyme, plus 1 teaspoon1 cup pearl onions1 cup Israeli couscous— Salt2 cups boiling water6 to 8 dried or fresh black mission figs, stemmed and quartered3 bacon slices, cut crosswise into matchsticks about ?-inch thick1 large egg yolk1 teaspoon sherry vinegar1 teaspoon honey1 tablespoon Dijon mustard2 cups arugula, tough stems removed— Freshly ground pepper— Zest of 1 orangeIn a zippered plastic bag or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid, combine the quail, 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, the garlic and 1 tablespoon thyme and turn the birds to coat thoroughly with the marinade. Seal the bag or container and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to overnight.Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.Using a small paring knife, cut a small X in the root end of each pearl onion. In a saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil over high heat. Plunge the onions into the boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and immediately rinse under cold running water to cool. When cool, gently squeeze the onions from their skins. Set aside.In a large frying pan, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove the bacon bits with a slotted spoon and reserve. Pour the hot bacon grease from the pan into a small bowl and reserve. Return the same pan (without cleaning it) to the stovetop over medium-low heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the onions. Saute until the onions are lightly browned on all sides, about 10 minutes.While the onions are cooking, make the bacon vinaigrette. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk, vinegar, honey, mustard, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the reserved bacon grease, and 1 teaspoon dried thyme. Whisk together until thickened and emulsified and set aside.When the onions are browned, add 2 tablespoons water to the pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the couscous and figs. Fold in the bacon vinaigrette, the reserve bacon bits and the arugula and stir gently until the arugula has wilted and all the ingredients are well blended. Remove from the heat. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and set aside.Remove the quail from the marinade and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. In a large, ovenproof frying pan or Dutch oven, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the quail in the pan, breast-side down, and sear until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until the birds lose their translucent, milky color on top, 12 to 15 minutes.Divide the couscous mixture among warmed plates, mounting it in the center. (The couscous will be warm. If you want it hotter, reheat it on the stovetop for a minute or so prior to serving.)Arrange quail, breast-side up, on each plate, leaning it against the bed of couscous. Garnish with salt and freshly ground pepper and orange zest.Polenta CakeMakes 8 to 10 servings— Cooking spray oil or canola oil for greasing2 cups bread/strong flour1 cup polenta1? cups unsalted butter, at room temperature5 cups confectioners' sugar1/8 teaspoon vanilla seeds, scraped from a vanilla bean4 large eggs, plus 2 egg yolks4 cups blackberries? cup granulated sugar2 tablespoons brandyPreheat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-inch springform cake pan with cooking spray oil.Sift the flour into a medium bowl. Add the polenta and stir to mix well. Set aside.In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the butter, confectioners' sugar and vanilla together until pale yellow and creamy, about 2 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the eggs and egg yolks and continue to beat for 2 minutes longer. Using the rubber spatula, fold the dry ingredients into the butter mixture. The batter will be fairly thick, but stir to mix thoroughly.Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top of the cake with the rubber spatula. Bake until the cake is firm and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool slightly. When cool enough to touch, unmold the cake onto a serving plate. Let cool completely before cutting.While the cake is cooling, in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the blackberries, granulated sugar and brandy. Using a hand-held potato mash or a large fork, mash the berries to break them up. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar is completely dissolved and most of the blackberries have broken down into a juicy sauce, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to lukewarm before serving.To serve, cut the cake into wedges and drizzle with the blackberry sauce.Diane Peterson, a staff writer, compiled this item. Reach her at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com.

The following recipes are from "Domaine Chandon Cookbook.

To create "ribbons" of carrot and hearts of palm, use a vegetable peeler and shave very thin slices.

Carrot and Hearts of Palm Salad with Kumquats, Cumin Seeds and Tangerine-Curry Vinaigrette

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 tablespoons cumin seeds

10 medium carrots, peeled and cut into thin strips

1 can (14 ounces) hearts of palm, rinsed, drained and cut into thin strips or ribbons

6 kumquats, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut crosswise into thin slices

3 tablespoons finely diced red onion

1/3 cup minced fresh cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

? cup fresh tangerine juice or orange juice

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon curry powder

— Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a small frying pan over medium heat, toast the cumin seeds, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the carrots, hearts of palm, kumquats, red onion, minced cilantro and cumin seeds. Toss gently to mix.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, tangerine juice, vinegar, mustard, and curry powder until the dressing thickens and all the ingredients are thoroughly blended.

Pour the dressing over the carrot mixture and toss thoroughly to coat evenly. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among salad plates, garnish with the cilantro sprigs, and serve at once.

Aside from marinating the quail, this entire recipe can be prepared in under an hour. The birds are best when marinated at least 4 hours in advance, and preferably overnight.

Roasted Quail with Israeli Couscous, Black Mission Figs, and Bacon Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

4 quail, boned

9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon dried thyme, plus 1 teaspoon

1 cup pearl onions

1 cup Israeli couscous

— Salt

2 cups boiling water

6 to 8 dried or fresh black mission figs, stemmed and quartered

3 bacon slices, cut crosswise into matchsticks about ?-inch thick

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 cups arugula, tough stems removed

— Freshly ground pepper

— Zest of 1 orange

In a zippered plastic bag or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid, combine the quail, 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, the garlic and 1 tablespoon thyme and turn the birds to coat thoroughly with the marinade. Seal the bag or container and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Using a small paring knife, cut a small X in the root end of each pearl onion. In a saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil over high heat. Plunge the onions into the boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and immediately rinse under cold running water to cool. When cool, gently squeeze the onions from their skins. Set aside.

In a large frying pan, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove the bacon bits with a slotted spoon and reserve. Pour the hot bacon grease from the pan into a small bowl and reserve. Return the same pan (without cleaning it) to the stovetop over medium-low heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the onions. Saute until the onions are lightly browned on all sides, about 10 minutes.

While the onions are cooking, make the bacon vinaigrette. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk, vinegar, honey, mustard, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the reserved bacon grease, and 1 teaspoon dried thyme. Whisk together until thickened and emulsified and set aside.

When the onions are browned, add 2 tablespoons water to the pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the couscous and figs. Fold in the bacon vinaigrette, the reserve bacon bits and the arugula and stir gently until the arugula has wilted and all the ingredients are well blended. Remove from the heat. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and set aside.

Remove the quail from the marinade and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. In a large, ovenproof frying pan or Dutch oven, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the quail in the pan, breast-side down, and sear until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until the birds lose their translucent, milky color on top, 12 to 15 minutes.

Divide the couscous mixture among warmed plates, mounting it in the center. (The couscous will be warm. If you want it hotter, reheat it on the stovetop for a minute or so prior to serving.)

Arrange quail, breast-side up, on each plate, leaning it against the bed of couscous. Garnish with salt and freshly ground pepper and orange zest.

Polenta Cake

Makes 8 to 10 servings

— Cooking spray oil or canola oil for greasing

2 cups bread/strong flour

1 cup polenta

1? cups unsalted butter, at room temperature

5 cups confectioners' sugar

1/8 teaspoon vanilla seeds, scraped from a vanilla bean

4 large eggs, plus 2 egg yolks

4 cups blackberries

? cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons brandy

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-inch springform cake pan with cooking spray oil.

Sift the flour into a medium bowl. Add the polenta and stir to mix well. Set aside.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the butter, confectioners' sugar and vanilla together until pale yellow and creamy, about 2 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the eggs and egg yolks and continue to beat for 2 minutes longer. Using the rubber spatula, fold the dry ingredients into the butter mixture. The batter will be fairly thick, but stir to mix thoroughly.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top of the cake with the rubber spatula. Bake until the cake is firm and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool slightly. When cool enough to touch, unmold the cake onto a serving plate. Let cool completely before cutting.

While the cake is cooling, in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the blackberries, granulated sugar and brandy. Using a hand-held potato mash or a large fork, mash the berries to break them up. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar is completely dissolved and most of the blackberries have broken down into a juicy sauce, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to lukewarm before serving.

To serve, cut the cake into wedges and drizzle with the blackberry sauce.

Diane Peterson, a staff writer, compiled this item. Reach her at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com.