What makes chardonnay and Southeast Asian cuisine a perfect match

There is a lot to like about our Wine of the Week, Eberle 2018 Paso Robles Eberle Estate Vineyard Chardonnay ($26), even if you are not head-over-heels for this varietal. It is rich without being cloying, and its fruit - especially apple, pear and Asian pear - is balanced by a pleasing minerality and bright acidity. It is neither a fruit bomb nor a butter bomb.

If you pay close attention, you’ll notice the slightest hint of caramel or creme brulée on the finish, which concludes with a puff of nearly magical smoke. It’s an enchanting example of chardonnay, for a great price.

The delicacy of the fruit suggests that ginger is an excellent match, which in turn indicates Southeast Asian cuisines that don’t have too much heat. Bün and similar noodle salads are ideal partners. You’ll also enjoy the wine with scallops seared in brown butter and, if you’re feeling ambitious, drizzled with a little ginger beurre blanc. Seafood in general is a good match with this wine.

For today’s recipe, I’m featuring a compound butter with garlic and fresh ginger, combined with pork and zucchini. It is both delicate and flavorful. Vegetarians can enjoy the zucchini over rice noodles (see the variation that follows the main recipe). The butter can also be used to sauté chicken or baste roasted chicken. It can also be used to sauté sweet peppers, corn cut off the cob, and diced nopales.

Pork Tenderloin with Garlic Ginger Butter & Zucchini

Serves 3 to 4

- Garlic Ginger Butter ( recipe follows)

1 pork tenderloin, about 1¼ pounds

- Kosher salt

- Grated zest of 1 Meyer lemon

1 medium-large zucchini, cut into thin half moons

1 teaspoon sesame seeds, lightly toasted

- Leaves from 3 or 4 cilantro sprigs, chopped

First, make the butter and refrigerate it.

Set the pork loin on a clean work surface and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Rub the pork all over with kosher salt and lemon zest. Set it on a rack in a roasting pan and bake until it reaches an internal temperature of about 145 degrees, about 15 to 20 minutes.

About 5 minutes before the pork is done, cut 2¼ inch rounds of the butter and put it into a medium sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the zucchini, sauté for 2 minutes, turn, and sauté 2 minutes more. Season lightly with salt and several turns of black pepper. Remove from the heat and keep warm.\

Remove the pork from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes. Use a sharp knife to cut the pork into thin slices.

Divide the zucchini among individual plates and top it with pork. Add a round of butter to each portion, top with sesame seeds and cilantro sprigs and enjoy right away.

Variation: Refresh 2 to 3 ounces of rice vermicelli according to directions. Divide the noodles among the plates and top with the zucchini and pork.

Garlic Ginger Butter

Makes 4 ounces (½ cup)

1 stick (8 tablespoons, 4 ounces) best quality butter, at room temperature

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, pressed

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

- Granulated sugar, as needed

Put the butter into a medium bowl and use a fork to mix it until smooth. Add the ginger, garlic, 3 or 4 generous pinches of salt and several turns of black pepper. Mix until very smooth.

Let rest about 5 minutes. Taste the butter, letting a bit dissolve on your tongue for several seconds. If it seems a bit flat, add a few pinches of sugar and one more pinch of salt and mix thoroughly.

Set the butter on a sheet of parchment, roll it into a log about an inch in diameter, wrap the parchment tightly and store in the refrigerator for up to four days and in the freezer for up to 3 weeks.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “The Good Cook’s Book of Salt & Pepper.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com